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Personally, I’d just slap some aluminum foil tape on there.
Personally, I’d just slap some aluminum foil tape on there.
Pinecil works OK for small things, but struggles on larger joints because of it’s low power and small thermal mass. Personally, I’d prefer one of the many Hakko/Weller clones for a cheap solution.
Have you tried 3D printing enclosures? There’s a bit of up front cost if you don’t have a printer already, but after that the material costs are pretty cheap. It’s really cool to be able to make a custom enclosure with all the cutouts, integrated standoffs, panel markings, etc all in a single print.
If you like mechanical pencils and want some color, look up clutch pencils. I apologize in advance for fueling your addiction.
Is it giving an error code, or just glitching out? I just repaired my Samsung control board. It would glitch out (display goes nuts, relays clicking). I found that there was cracked solder joints on the main board relays. I resoldered them and it’s totally fixed now. I think the bad connection causes the relays to pulse which creates back-emf that glitches the display. Getting the board out of the potting compound is annoying and messy, but otherwise it was an easy fix.
There’s no need to touch the springs at all when replacing the opener. But this is still an excellent PSA. Garage door springs will seriously mess you up before you even know what happened. I’ve replaced them before, but you definitely need the right tools and procedures to do it safely. I would definitely advise against it unless you have experience.
I’d probably go with some sort of split cover plate/flange (or a regular non-split one if you can disconnect it to feed it through). If you have access to a 3D printer, you can make one that way pretty easily. If not, you can probably find one at the hardware store or online that would work.
In addition to what others have said, make sure the vents are not full of dust or obstructed.