dual_sport_dork 🐧🗡️

There was a sequel to Chrono Trigger, and it released on the SNES.

…Sort of.

You did, at least eventually. This could be argued to be a very early, not to mention analog, form of enshittification.

I hear it’s amazing when the famous purple stuffed worm in flap-jaw space with the tuning fork does a raw blink on Hara-Kiri Rock. I need scissors! 61?

Why yes, the rest of my deck is Millstones, Ancestral Recall, and Ball Lightnings. Why do you ask?

With a Nixie tube display like that, you’re usually looking at much earlier.

I found this on that model: https://www.oldcalculatormuseum.com/monroe620.html

That blue spell was probably Ancestral Recall, but I’m sure there were others of its ilk.

Anyway, while we’re at it I like to trot this one out every now and again for everyone to gawp at.

And here we thought baraminology would never be useful for anything.

Naughty…

Leopards? Eating my face???

I can only conjecture it must have cost a mint.

Crikey. I have to wonder what that ~2TB unit must have cost in 2016.

Interesting that the one has such large capacitors in it. I imagine that is as last-ditch effort to keep the board powered long enough to finish flushing all of its caches in the event of a power failure.

Thus far all of my Logitech devices are in the “just works” category, but admittedly none of them are brand new. The most recent is the M510 mouse I use on my office PC. Maybe their newer stuff is all bullshit now; I wouldn’t be at all surprised to learn if it were.

If so, it makes me more motivated to finally get around to ordering a new microswitch for the left-clicker on my old Mx518 mouse.

I’ve had much the opposite experience, in my case coming from using a variety of Razer peripherals and having them all die early deaths, and then Razer themselves to be completely useless in regards to support even well within their warranty period. I gave up and switched to basically all Logitech stuff, which has been flawless for me for many many years.

If everything from all major brands is going to require Yet Another Fucking Account (thus far Logitech does not appear to, or at least not the stuff from them I have) I will just be forced to switch to buying generic brandless Chinese garbage and deal with replacing it regularly. Generic Chinese crap never has an app or an account requirement.

PLA is a poor choice for this application. PLA will permanently deform under constant load (creep) even at room temperature. Hanging things on a hook is definitely a constant load – especially up to 45 pounds worth of something. These may not fail under short term static testing at that weight but I can tell you they absolutely will not withstand that type of load for an extended period. They’re probably fine for very light duty hanging, however. I have a variety of PLA pegs and hooks around the place that are at most holding a couple of ounces in some cases for 2+ years and they have not appreciably deformed, or at least not to the extent that I’ve noticed enough to care.

But to avoid the inevitable customer complaints of this ilk, I advise you to either lower your advertised load rating or print these out of ABS or ASA, or at the very least PETG if your machine can’t handle the higher temperatures required for ABS reliably. Polycarb would be even better but it is extremely difficult to print with consumer printers and is probably more trouble than it’s worth. Out of the “normal” non-exotic, non-super-high-temp filaments readily commercially available, ABS has the best creep resistance.

I’ve been using those integrated flat LED fixtures in my place lately. I don’t find them too difficult to install, and at least one of my rooms has a rather low ceiling so I’d rather not have stuff dangling down where I can bonk myself on the head with it.

I haven’t had a single problem but if they die they’re trivially easy – for me – to replace. They’re just held onto the ceiling electrical box with two screws, and the electrical connection is two wire nuts. It’ll take me longer to find and lug my stepladder into position than it will for me to replace one. Light fixtures are dead easy, you don’t even have to find and turn off the breaker. Just turn it off at the switch before you mess with it.

The example you linked is suspiciously expensive. I’m getting these for around $15 each.

If you are going to go the socket-and-bulbs route for any of the reasons raised by the other comments here, make absolutely certain that you don’t get a fixture that is enclosed in any way. Enclosed fixtures will kill LED bulbs quickly, and in extreme cases you’ll go through them faster than filament bulbs.

Case in point, cheap LED Christmas lights are often not rectified at all so they flicker at 50/60 Hz depending on your country’s electrical supply…

There was also the Nokia N900 which ran Maemo, which was much closer to a traditional Linux distribution to the point that it was fairly trivial to compile desktop Linux programs for it. Which could even be done on the phone itself, if you had a lot of time on your hands.

Typically it’s not the emitters – the LED’s themselves – that fail. If driven correctly, those have lifetimes of tens of thousands of hours. That’s what the manufacturer is advertising on the box. Yes, an individual LED when driven correctly will probably last 20,000 hours. (Usually more, depending on how pedantic you want to get. The 20,000 hour figure often quoted is the point where the emitter drops to 80% of its original light output.)

LED “bulbs,” the type that replace filament bulbs in consumer fixtures, typically fail in their driver hardware. LED’s run off of low voltage DC and in the base of all of those LED conversion bulbs is a power conversion assembly that steps down and rectifies 120v/240c AC to whatever DC voltage the LED array in there expects. These are inevitably made out of whatever the cheapest passives and semiconductor components the manufacturer thinks they can get away with. These don’t last 20,000 hours, especially not in where they’re usually installed.

The main killer for all semiconductor electronics, which includes both LED’s themselves and their driver circuitry, is heat. This is often exacerbated by the fact that LED replacement modules are usually stuck in enclosed light fixtures designed for filament bulbs that have insufficient ventilation to get rid of the waste heat from the components in an LED module. The insides of those enclosed ceiling light fixtures, the ubiquitous “boob light,” gets hot, even with only LED modules installed. Filament bulbs don’t care because they don’t have any electronics in them and how they work is literally by getting so hot the glow. But LED modules in that kind of environment will invariably suffer an early failure.

The best way you can get your LED modules to last longer is to install them in a fixture where they’ll have a lot of air circulation available or at the very least which is not fully enclosed.

It never has been, and if it ever were we wouldn’t have needed all those statues of the chick with the scales and the blindfold as propaganda.

Water heaters are also stupidly easy to install.

For some reason, in my locale you have to apply for a permit to replace a water heater. I strongly suspect the compliance rate with this asinine scheme is very near to zero. (For anyone reading this, yes, I will totally pay the state for the privilege of installing my own water heater in my own home when I switch mine to hybrid. Scout’s honor.)